Ski
Wax Notes:
Prep/clean
skis
Clean
entire skis with ski wax remover, and wipe with fiberlene. Scrape kick
wax off, if needed due to hard klister, leaves or dirt, etc.
Then
use fibertex to cork and buff/smooth out (green) or Scotch bright
(green, i.e.Walmart) for tips and tails only. Fibertex aligns the
micro hairs in the glide area.
If there any gouges in ski, scrub hard with fibertex which will flatten the
scrape, before finishing with a few strokes in ski direction.
Use
60 grit/coarse silicon carbide sand paper in the kick zone only. Sand
crosswise, anglewise, and finish length wise. Then wipe again with
ski wax remover. Let sit for 20 mins, minimum!!
Use
CH hot waxes (not flouro glider waxes - need good ventilation for
this type, its dangerous). Glider waxes are temperature coded, just
like kick and klister waxes.
Glide
hot wax:
Mark
kick zone with fiberlene and hold with masking tape, on the
underneath of the ski. You want to keep the kick and glide area separate.
Iron on wax with a Ski/Swix ioron, (or tin foil over a regular clothes iron) don't go much above 120
Celsius. If wax smokes - it's too hot! The temperature setting is usually written on the wax box, on how hot to set iron. Make sure iron is clean. Heat wax with iron,
don't do drops, but use wavy ("S") on both sides of ski
tips and tails unless it is a new ski.
Iron
enough to melt and distribute wax (should be liquid after iron passes
a couple of inches). Smooth over with iron another 2-3 passes in ski
direction. Use side of iron in grooves to iron wax overflow. If you
put your thumb under the top side of ski it should be warm. When
done, lay ski horizontally, gravity works! Wait a minimum of 1 hr or
longer at room temperature.
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Scrape
wax off with scraper (flat plastic) Scrape grooves and edges first!
Scrape it well.
Cold
green glide wax will chip and fly around, so perhaps make just a pass
or two with a brass brush before scraping, which will make a powder.
Use a nylon brush and scape it again and again, until you can see
factory design of ski base. Then use a horse hair brush, keep
scraping if needed. Should be smooth and clean. Do it many times,
until no more wax comes off.
Need
to do final brush and scrape outside (in cold temp) as cold temps
will push more wax out of the pores, as the ski contracts.
Kick
base binder/klister hot wax:
Know
where your kick zone is. Toko green is good and so is Swix . Apply
like usual kick wax/klister, then use iron to melt after cleaning
iron. Apply another thin layer and iron again. Melt and spread with
iron. Then cork it in. Stay in kick zone! Take skis outside and let
it cool before applying kick klister or kick wax on top.
It
there are ripples in wax or klister, it needs to be corked out.
Base
klister wax will bind/last longer, and is better for abrasive
conditions but is slower if used in newer snow. Don't use klister if
there is fresh snow - will slow you down!
Put
hard wax on top of klister/base wax, after as per usual (wax of the
day) but let it cool first.
Most
will used hard wax binder.
